Painting a wall seems simple, but a neat and even result starts with the right preparation. With this step-by-step guide, you will paint your wall like a professional.

What do you need?

• Wall paint
• Undercoat or primer, if necessary
• Wall filler or repair putty
• Sandpaper
• Paint conditioner
• Painter's tape and drop cloth
• Paint roller, small roller and brush
• Paint tray
• Putty knife
• Dust brush or vacuum cleaner

Step 1 – Covering and cleaning

Cover the floor and furniture well and neatly tape off skirting boards, door frames and other parts that are not being painted.

First clean and degrease an existing painted wall.

Our advice:

• Giga Paint Giga Schoon for cleaning and degreasing existing paint layers.
• HPX Masking 4800 Delicate Surfaces for fragile surfaces and already painted surfaces.

Remove loose paint, plaster and other poorly adhering parts before continuing.

Step 2 – Repairing holes and cracks

Fill damages before you start painting.

Small holes and damages up to approximately 5 mm:

• Bolivia Wall Filler

Larger or deeper damages:

• Bolivia Super Putty

Small fine repairs:

• Bolivia Quick Putty

Gaps and joints along the ceiling, skirting boards or door frames:

• Zwaluw Den Braven Acryl Anti-Crack

Let the filler dry completely before you start sanding.

Step 3 – Sanding

First sand the repaired areas flat and then sand them fine.

• Large unevenness: grit P120–P150
• Fine sanding: grit P180
• Lightly matting an existing smooth paint layer: P180–P220

For example, use sanding materials from Sia Abrasives.

Do not sand unnecessarily coarse. Scratches from coarse sandpaper can remain visible after painting.

Remove all dust after sanding.

Step 4 – Do I need an undercoat?

An undercoat is not always necessary.

Do the water test: wet a small part of the wall with a sponge.

Does the water soak directly into the wall?
Then the surface is highly absorbent and we recommend an undercoat.

Suitable products include:

• Giga Paint Interior Undercoat – transparent, for absorbent surfaces
• Wijzonol Wall Undercoat Tintable – an opaque undercoat that can be tinted
• Brillux Lacryl Hydro-Gel ELF 695 – for evening out surfaces with different absorbency and light sanding

New plasterwork must be completely dry before you start undercoating and painting.

Is the existing wall well bonded, clean and barely absorbent? Then a separate undercoat is usually not necessary.

Step 5 – Painting the edges

First stir the wall paint well.

Then paint the corners, edges, electrical outlets and joints with a brush or small roller. Do not paint too far ahead: the large areas must still join wetly here.

Step 6 – Rolling the wall

For smooth to lightly textured walls, use, for example, an Anza Pro MicMex wall paint roller of 18 or 25 cm.

Imagine dividing the wall into strips approximately one meter wide.

1. Apply enough paint.
2. Distribute the paint evenly over the surface.
3. Always work wet-on-wet through to the next strip.
4. Finally, roll the surface out gently in the same direction.

Do not press hard on the roller and try not to roll out the paint too thin. Too little paint causes stripes and lap marks more quickly.

Which wall paint should I choose?

For a beautiful matte finish

• Giga Paint Giga Mat S1 Wall Paint
• Wijzonol Matte Wall Paint

For an extra matte, calm appearance

• Brillux Superlux 3000
• Wijzonol Extramat BIOseries Wall Paint

For walls that need to be easily washable

Think of a kitchen, hallway or home with children.

• Giga Paint Washable Wall Paint
• Brillux Sensocryl 266

For an affordable white finish

• Giga Paint Eco Mat White

Step 7 – Second coat and finishing

Let the first coat dry according to the drying time on the packaging. Apply a second coat if necessary for a completely even and opaque result.

Preferably remove the painter's tape when the last paint layer is not yet fully cured. This reduces the chance that dried paint along the edges is pulled off.

Giga Paint tip

Always finish a complete wall in one go and do not stop halfway. Especially with dark colors and matte wall paints, lap marks can otherwise remain visible.

Are you unsure about the right undercoat, wall paint or roller for your wall? Feel free to contact us. We can also supply products from the complete assortments of, among others, Brillux, Wijzonol, Bolivia, Woodcap, Anza Pro, Bleko, HPX, Sia and Zwaluw Den Braven.

Texture paint gives a wall or ceiling a decorative, grainy texture. Proper preparation is important: texture paint can camouflage small imperfections, but holes, cracks and poor paint layers will remain visible.

What do you need?

• Texture paint, for example Brillux Liquid Rauhfaser 902
• Undercoat or primer
• Filler
• Sandpaper P120 and P180
• Wide paint roller and suitable texture roller
• Brush for corners and edges
• Paint scraper
• Plastering knife
• Painter's tape and masking material

Our product tips:

• Repairs: Bolivia Wall Filler or Bolivia Super Plaster
• Joints and expansion joints: Zwaluw Acryl-W or Acryl Anti-Crack
• Abrasives: Sia P120 and P180
• Undercoat: Giga Paint Interior Undercoat, Wijzonol Wall Undercoat or Brillux Lacryl Undercoat 595
• Smooth or poorly absorbent surface: Brillux Adhesion Primer 3720
• Masking: HPX Masking Gold or HPX Masking 4800 Delicate Surfaces for sensitive surfaces

Step 1 – Clean the wall

The surface must be dry, sound, clean and dust-free.

Remove loose paint, wallpaper remnants and other poor layers. First clean greasy or dirty walls with a suitable paint cleaner/degreaser.

For new plasterwork, the surface must be completely dry and cured before you start.

Step 2 – Repair holes and cracks

Fill holes, damage and imperfections before applying the texture paint.

For small holes and damage, you can use Bolivia Wall Filler. For larger holes or locally leveling the wall, Bolivia Super Plaster is a good choice.

For joints between, for example, a wall and ceiling, window frames or skirting boards, use an overpaintable acrylic sealant, such as Zwaluw Acryl-W or Zwaluw Acryl Anti-Crack.

Allow the repair material to dry completely.

Step 3 – Sanding

First sand the repaired areas flat with Sia P120 and optionally finish with P180.

You can lightly sand an existing smooth paint layer with P180 to make the surface even and matte.

Then make the wall completely dust-free.

Step 4 – Undercoating

The primer you use depends on the surface.

Absorbent surface, such as new plasterwork, plasterboard or porous plaster:

• Giga Paint Interior Undercoat
• Wijzonol Wall Undercoat
• Brillux Lacryl Undercoat 595

Smooth, poorly absorbent or already painted surface:

• Brillux Adhesion Primer 3720

The correct undercoat prevents uneven absorption and ensures that the texture paint can be applied more evenly.

Allow the undercoat to dry thoroughly according to the instructions on the packaging.

Step 5 – Applying texture paint

Stir the texture paint thoroughly.

Apply the paint generously and evenly with a suitable wide roller. Work in sections of approximately 1 to 2 m² at a time and ensure that the paint has approximately the same thickness everywhere.

Always work wet-on-wet and preferably finish one complete wall without long interruptions. This prevents visible joins.

For a coarse, seamless texture, we recommend Brillux Liquid Rauhfaser 902, for example.

Step 6 – Creating the texture

When using a texture paint that can be further textured, go over the still-wet paint immediately after applying it with a clean texture roller.

Always roll in the same direction, for example from top to bottom.

Important: do not wait too long. As soon as the paint starts to dry, you must not roll over it again. This can cause irregular patches and joins.

Do you want a more playful effect? Then you can also texture the wet paint with a block brush or suitable texturing tool.

Step 7 – Finishing

Remove the painter's tape while the paint is not yet fully cured.

Then allow the texture paint to dry completely.

Do you want a different color later? Then the texture can usually be painted over with a good wall paint, for example:

• Giga Paint Giga Matte Wall Paint S1
• Giga Paint Washable Wall Paint
• Wijzonol Matte Wall Paint
• a suitable Brillux interior wall paint

Do not apply the wall paint too thickly, so that the applied texture remains clearly visible.

Giga Paint tip

First test the desired texture on a small sample area. The roller used, the amount of paint and the rolling technique have a major influence on how coarse or fine the final texture will be.

Always finish a complete wall in one go and continue working wet-on-wet. This gives the most even result.

Painting new plasterboard may seem simple, but proper preparation is important. The joints, screw holes and differences in absorbency must be treated first. By following the steps below, you will achieve a smooth and even result.

What do you need?

• Filler or plasterboard joint compound
• Joint tape for joints between plasterboards, if necessary
• Filling knife
• Sia sandpaper P120/P150 and P180/P220
• Primer for plasterboard and absorbent surfaces
• Wall paint
• Anza Pro Micmex wall paint roller and brush
• HPX 4770 Pink or HPX 4800 Purple masking tape
• Vacuum cleaner or soft brush
• Drop cloth
• Zwaluw Den Braven Acryl Anti-Crack for expansion joints, if necessary

Step 1 – Fill joints and screw holes

First, check that all screws are sufficiently recessed.

Finish the joints between new plasterboards with a suitable plasterboard joint compound in combination with joint tape. This reduces the chance of the joints becoming visible or cracking later.

For screw holes and localised damage, you can use Bolivia Lightweight Repair Paste, for example. This repair paste is suitable for surfaces such as plasterboard and can be used to fill and level holes and damage.

For minor damage, Bolivia Wall Filler can also be used.

Tip: do not use Woodcap on plasterboard. Woodcap Woodfill is intended for wood repairs.

Step 2 – Sand smooth

Allow the filler to dry completely.

First, carefully sand the repaired areas with P120 or P150. Then finish with P180 to P220 for a smooth surface.

A suitable product is Sia Abrasives 1948 Siaflex, available in grits from P120 to finer grades.

Sand the filler carefully and avoid sanding through the top layer of the plasterboard.

Then thoroughly remove all dust from the entire wall or ceiling.

Step 3 – Seal expansion joints

You can neatly seal joints between the plasterboard and, for example, a window frame, ceiling or other wall with paintable acrylic sealant.

A good choice is Zwaluw Den Braven Acryl Anti-Crack. It is suitable for surfaces such as plasterboard and plasterwork and was developed to reduce cracking after painting.

Allow the sealant to dry sufficiently before painting.

Step 4 – Prime the plasterboard

New plasterboard and plastered areas absorb paint differently. Therefore, when working with new plasterboard, it is preferable to prime the entire wall or ceiling.

Suitable products include:

• Giga Paint Interior Primer
• Wijzonol Tintable Wall Primer
• Brillux Vitabase 9002
• Brillux Wall Primer 3729

Giga Paint Interior Primer reduces differences in absorbency and forms a base for wall paint systems. For plaster-based surfaces, Giga Paint also indicates a maximum moisture content of 1%.

Wijzonol also recommends priming untreated plasterboard to prevent uneven absorption, stains and colour variations.

Step 5 – Apply the first coat of wall paint

When the primer is completely dry, you can apply the first coat of wall paint.

Good choices include:

• Giga Paint Eco Mat
• Giga Paint Giga Mat S1
• Wijzonol Wijzotex Mat
• Wijzonol Wijzotex Mat S1
• Brillux Vitashine 9006

Giga Paint Eco Mat is specifically suitable for walls and ceilings made of, among other things, plasterboard.

Wijzonol Wijzotex Mat is suitable for interior use on, among other things, panel materials and has a matte finish.

For Brillux, a system can be created for plasterboard using Vitabase 9002 or Wall Primer 3729, followed by Vitashine 9006.

For large areas, use an Anza Pro Micmex wall paint roller, for example. It provides a fine texture and is suitable for smooth to medium-smooth surfaces.

Always work in sections and roll out the paint wet-on-wet.

Step 6 – Second coat of wall paint

Allow the first coat to dry according to the specified drying time and then apply a second coat.

Work wet-on-wet again and roll out the final sections all in the same direction. This prevents lap marks and gives you the most even finish possible.

Extra tip

Preferably mask off delicate plaster walls or already painted surfaces with low-tack tape, such as HPX 4770 Pink or HPX 4800 Purple. These tapes are specially suitable for delicate surfaces such as plasterboard, plasterwork and fresh paint layers.

A staircase endures a lot every day. Good preparation and a strong, durable varnish are therefore particularly important. This step-by-step guide is intended for an indoor wooden staircase.

What do you need?

• Degreaser: Giga Paint Giga Schoon
• Sandpaper: Sia P80, P120/P150, P180 and P220/P240
• Minor damage: Bolivia Lakplamuur
• Larger holes or damage: Woodcap Woodfill Epoxy Perfect Finish 2-in-1
• Primer/undercoat
• Durable topcoat
• Paint roller: for example Anza Pro Vilt (synthetic) or Anza Pro Antex (water-based) 
• Good paint brush
• Filling knife
• Vacuum cleaner/dust cloth
• Drop cloth and painter's tape, for example HPX

Step 1: Clean and degrease

First, thoroughly clean and degrease the staircase. Use Giga Paint Giga Schoon, for example.

Pay extra attention to the treads and the handrail. These areas often contain skin oils, cleaning agents and dirt that can reduce the paint's adhesion.

Then allow the staircase to dry completely.

Step 2: Sand the old paint

Are there loose or poorly adhering paint layers? Remove them first.

Then sand the staircase:

• P80: only for severe damage, glue residues or thick transitions.
• P120–P150: for old existing paint layers.
• P180: to make the surface neatly smooth before priming.

Do not sand unnecessarily coarse. Deep sanding scratches can remain visible in the varnish later.

Then make the staircase completely dust-free.

Step 3: Repair damage

You can fill small nail holes, scratches and damage up to approximately 3 mm with Bolivia Lakplamuur.

For deeper damage or larger repairs, we recommend Bolivia 2K Epoxy Houtvuller 4 uur, for example. This is a strong, non-shrinking repair paste that is suitable for wooden stairs, among other things.

Allow the filler to cure completely and then sand the repair smooth with P180.

Gaps along walls or joints can, if necessary, be finished with a paintable acrylic sealant, for example from Zwaluw Den Braven Anti-Crack.

Step 4: Apply primer or undercoat

Bare wood and repaired areas must always be primed.

Giga Paint system
Use Giga Paint Multiprimer, for example, and then finish with a strong Giga Paint Aqua varnish.

Wijzonol system
Use Wijzonol Grondverf Waterverdunbaar, for example, and then finish with a strong Wijzonol Aqua varnish.

Brillux system
For a professional, heavily load-bearing finish, we recommend a suitable Brillux primer, such as Brillux 2K-Aqua EP Primer 2373, in combination with a strong finish for the treads.

For wood types where natural substances can bleed through, Brillux Isoprimer 243 can be used as an isolating primer coat.

Allow the primer coat to dry thoroughly.

Step 5: Intermediate sanding

Lightly sand the dried primer coat with P240-P320.

You do not need to sand the paint layer completely off again; the goal is only to remove dust, fibres and small imperfections and to ensure the next layer adheres well.

Then carefully make it dust-free again.

Step 6: Varnish the staircase

Always use a scratch- and wear-resistant varnish on a staircase.

An extra strong choice for the stair treads
Brillux 2K-Aqua Durakett / Durapur is a water-based 2-component finish specially designed for heavily loaded wooden floors and stairs. The varnish is highly wear-resistant, easy to clean and available in colour. In addition, the system has been tested for slip resistance class R9.

Apply the varnish evenly with a good paint brush and a fine paint roller, for example an Anza Pro Vilt.

For a closed staircase, it is easiest to work in this order:

stringer → sides → stair tread

Step 7: Apply a second coat

Allow the first coat to dry according to the product data sheet.

Then sand very lightly with P240-P320, make the staircase dust-free and apply the second coat of varnish.

Especially on the stair treads, two good finish coats are important for sufficient film thickness and wear resistance.

Handy tip

Does the staircase need to remain in use while painting? Then paint every other tread first. As soon as they are sufficiently dry and can be walked on, you can paint the remaining treads.

Note: dry does not immediately mean fully cured. A fresh coat of varnish remains more vulnerable for the first few days or weeks. Therefore, preferably walk in socks at the beginning and avoid heavy loads.

Not every product mentioned is available in our webshop by default. Giga Paint can supply the full range from, among others, Brillux, Wijzonol, Bolivia, Anza Pro, Bleko, HPX, Sia and Zwaluw Den Braven. Feel free to contact us if you are unsure which system is suitable for your staircase.

Painting an interior door frame starts with proper preparation. By cleaning, sanding and priming thoroughly, you will achieve a neat finish and the paint will stay beautiful for longer.

What do you need?

• Surface cleaner, for example Bleko B-Clean
• Sandpaper, for example Sia 1950 Siaspeed
• Repair filler, for example Bolivia Lakplamuur, Bolivia Acryl Plamuur Rapid or Woodcap Woodfill Perfect Finish
• Paintable acrylic caulk, for example Zwaluw Den Braven Acryl Anti-Crack
• Undercoat or primer
• Water-based interior paint
• Anza Pro Super Soft brush
• Anza Pro Antex paint roller
• Painter's tape, for example HPX 4360 Gold or HPX 4800 Paars
• Drop cloth, filler knife and dust cloth

Step 1 – Cleaning and degreasing

First, thoroughly clean the door frame with a surface cleaner such as Bleko B-Clean. Always degrease before sanding, so that grease and dirt are not sanded into the existing paint layer.

Then let the door frame dry thoroughly.

Step 2 – Repairing damage

Check the door frame for holes, dents, cracks and damage.

For minor imperfections, use for example:

• Bolivia Lakplamuur to smooth out primed wood;
• Bolivia Acryl Plamuur Rapid for small holes and damage;
• Woodcap Woodfill Perfect Finish 2K Epoxy for deeper or more severe repairs up to approximately 10 mm.

After drying, sand the repair area smooth.

You can caulk gaps between the door frame and the wall with for example Zwaluw Den Braven Acryl Anti-Crack. Do not use caulk as a substitute for filler when repairing damage to the wood.

Step 3 – Sanding the door frame

Sand the existing paintwork thoroughly to a matte finish.

Our advice:

• Poor or rough old paint layer: P120–P150
• Normal existing paintwork: P180
• Sanding repair areas flat: P150–P180

Use for example Sia 1950 Siaspeed or a Sia sanding sponge for mouldings and hard-to-reach areas.

Then remove all sanding dust.

Step 4 – Masking

Carefully mask off glass, walls and other areas that are not being painted.

Use HPX 4360 Gold for neat paint lines on for example glass. Does the door frame border a delicate or freshly painted surface? Then use HPX 4800 Paars, which has a lower adhesive strength.

Step 5 – Priming

Are there bare wood parts, repairs, or is the entire door frame untreated? Then apply a suitable undercoat first.

Giga Paint system

• Giga Paint Multiprimer

Brillux system

• Brillux Lacryl Grondverf 246
• For an extra neat finish, optionally use Brillux Hydro-PU-Tec Voorlak 2020
• For wood species where extractives may bleed through: Brillux Isoprimer 243

Wijzonol system

• Wijzonol AQUA Hechtprimer when extra adhesion is desired

Let the primer layer dry according to the product instructions.

Step 6 – Intermediate sanding

Lightly sand the dry primer or undercoat with P240. For an extra smooth final result, you can use P240–P320 or a fine Sia sanding sponge.

Then make the door frame completely dust-free.

Step 7 – Topcoating

For interior use, preferably use a water-based paint. It dries quickly, has little odour and hardly yellows.

Our recommendations:

Giga Paint

• Giga Paint Aqua Zijdeglans
• Giga Paint Aqua Hoogglans
• Giga Paint Aqua Mat

Brillux

• Hydro-PU-Tec Zijdematlak 2088
• Hydro-PU-Tec Hoogglanslak 2084

Wijzonol

• AQUA Zijdeglanslak
• AQUA Hoogglanslak
• AQUA Matlak

Apply the paint with an Anza Pro Super Soft brush. Larger flat areas can first be rolled with an Anza Pro Antex paint roller and then lightly brushed over if necessary.

For the best and most durable result, you usually apply two topcoats. Sand very lightly with P320 between coats when required by the paint system used.

Giga Paint tip

When working with water-based paint, do not work too long in the paint. Load up enough material, distribute it evenly and then let the paint flow. This prevents streaks and lap marks.

Preferably remove the painter's tape before the final paint layer has fully cured, so that you get a nice sharp edge.

Note: A primer system is required for plastic, aluminium or other metal door frames.

Painting an interior door may seem simple, but proper preparation is essential for a professional finish. Carefully clean, sand and repair the door, and use a durable water-based paint that resists scratches, knocks and hand oils.

What do you need?

• Surface cleaner, such as Bleko B-Clean Surface Cleaner
• Sandpaper, such as Sia 1950 Siaspeed
• Grit P120–P180 for repairs and heavier preparation
• Grit P180–P240 for sanding down existing paintwork
• Grit P240 for intermediate sanding
• Filler, such as Bolivia Paint Filler or Woodcap Woodfill Perfect Finish
• Suitable undercoat or adhesion primer
• Water-based interior paint
• Paint roller, such as Anza Pro Antex
• Flat or round Anza Pro Super Soft Brush
• Painter's tape, such as HPX Masking Tape
• Drop cloth or protective fleece
• Filling knife and dust cloth

Step 1: Clean and degrease the door

Remove door handles and fittings or carefully mask them off.

Clean the door before sanding with a good surface cleaner, such as Bleko B-Clean. This prevents grease, dirt and hand oils from being rubbed into the surface during sanding.

Allow the door to dry thoroughly afterwards.

Step 2: Repair damage

Check the door for scratches, dents, holes and damage.

Small scratches and superficial damage:
Use Bolivia Paint Filler, for example. It is suitable for smoothing wood and MDF before painting.

Deeper damage in wood:
Use Woodcap Woodfill Perfect Finish 2-in-1, for example. This is particularly suitable when more material needs to be built up.

Allow the filler to dry or cure completely according to the manufacturer's instructions.

First sand the repaired areas flat with P120–P180, then finish with P180–P240.

Step 3: Sand the entire door

Sand existing, well-adhered paintwork completely matt with P180–P240.

For a door that is already fairly smooth, we recommend P240. This provides sufficient adhesion without creating deep sanding scratches.

Always sand carefully along edges and mouldings to avoid sanding through sharp corners.

Then remove all dust from the door.

Step 4: Apply undercoat or primer

If the existing paint layer is still completely intact and well sanded, a full undercoat may not always be necessary. Bare patches and repairs must be primed.

For bare wood, MDF or difficult-to-adhere surfaces, use a suitable primer.

Giga Paint

• Giga Paint Aqua Multiprimer
• Followed by, for example, Giga Paint Aqua Silk-Gloss PU, Aqua Matt PU or Aqua High-Gloss PU

Wijzonol

• Wijzonol AQUA Undercoat
• For difficult-to-adhere surfaces: Wijzonol AQUA Adhesion Primer
• Finish with Wijzonol AQUA Silk-Gloss, Matt or High-Gloss

Brillux

• Brillux Lacryl Undercoat 246
• Hydro-PU-Tec Silk-Matt Paint 2088
• Hydro-PU-Tec High-Gloss Paint 2084

For untreated wood where discolouration or bleeding of wood components may occur, Brillux Isoprimer 243 can be used.

Step 5: Intermediate sanding

Allow the undercoat or first coat of paint to dry completely.

Then lightly sand the door with P240. This removes raised wood fibres and small imperfections, resulting in a much smoother finish.

For mouldings, edges and hard-to-reach areas, you may use a fine Sia sanding pad or sanding fleece.

Then carefully remove all dust from the door.

Step 6: Apply the first coat of paint

For interior doors, we recommend using a durable, scratch- and wear-resistant water-based paint.

First apply the paint along edges and mouldings with a brush. Then spread the paint over the flat areas with a fine paint roller.

An Anza Pro Antex is ideal for this.

Work on each panel from top to bottom. Apply enough paint, spread it evenly, then roll it in gently in one direction.

Important: do not roll water-based paint for too long. Apply, spread, roll it in, and then leave it to settle for the best finish.

Step 7: Lightly sand and apply the topcoat

For the best result, very lightly sand the first coat with P240–P320 or a fine sanding fleece after it has dried completely.

Remove all dust from the door again, then apply the second coat of paint.

Remove the painter's tape before the paint has fully cured.

Which paint do we recommend?

For an interior door, we would mainly choose:

Giga Paint:
Giga Paint Aqua Multiprimer + Giga Paint Aqua Silk-Gloss PU

Wijzonol:
Wijzonol AQUA Adhesion Primer + Wijzonol AQUA Silk-Gloss

Brillux:
Brillux Hydro-PU-Tec Undercoat 2020 + Brillux Hydro-PU-Tec Silk-Matt Paint 2088

Silk-gloss or silk-matt is often the most practical choice for interior doors: durable, easy to clean, and small imperfections are less noticeable than with high-gloss.

Giga Paint tip

Do you have a foil-, plastic-, melamine- or factory-finished door? Do not use ordinary primer. First check what material the door is made of and use a suitable adhesion primer. If in doubt, we are happy to help you choose the right paint system.

It is possible to paint tiles, but Giga Paint does not recommend this as a standard solution. Especially in bathrooms and kitchens, old soap residue, limescale, grease, silicone and cleaning products can severely reduce the paint's adhesion.

Even when a tile appears clean, there may still be invisible contamination. This can cause the primer and paint to later come loose, peel or fail to adhere properly in places.

Especially for floor tiles, shower walls and other surfaces that are exposed to water for extended periods or experience heavy wear, we usually advise not to paint the tiles.

When do we advise against painting tiles?

Avoid painting tiles if:

• they are floor tiles;
• they are located in the direct shower or bath area;
• water regularly pools on them;
• they are loose or sound hollow;
• the grout is poor, cracked or mouldy;
• there are silicone or sealant residues on the tiles;
• the surface cannot be made completely clean, dry and grease-free.

Painting may sometimes be possible for wall tiles in, for example, a toilet, kitchen or dry bathroom area.

What do you need?

• Bleko B-Clean Paint Preparer or a suitable powerful degreaser
• Sia 1950 Siaspeed sandpaper
• Grit P180-P240 for matting the tiles
• Grit P320 or fine sanding screen between coats of paint
• Bolivia Filler for difficult surfaces for small damage on glazed tiles
• For larger damage, possibly Bolivia Special Filler
• Suitable adhesion primer for smooth, non-porous surfaces
• Durable paint
• HPX masking tape
• Anza Pro brush and fine paint roller
• Zwaluw Silicone-NO (+ Sanitary) for reapplying sanitary sealant joints

Step 1 – Remove sealant and clean tiles

Completely remove existing silicone sealant before you start. It is not possible to paint over silicone reliably. (We have Avis Anti-Silicone (Aqua) or Avis Silicone Remover)

Next, remove any limescale, soap and dirt residues. Then degrease the tiles thoroughly, for example with Bleko B-Clean.

If necessary, rinse with clean water and allow the tiles to dry completely.

Note: inadequate cleaning is one of the main causes of paint peeling off tiles.

Step 2 – Matt the tiles

Smooth and glazed tiles must be properly roughened.

Sand the tiles evenly with Sia 1950 Siaspeed P180-P240. The goal is not to sand away the glaze completely, but to matt the shine everywhere.

Then make the surface completely dust-free.

Step 3 – Repair damage

Check the tiles and grout for holes, cracks and damage.

For small damage on non-porous surfaces such as glazed tiles, Bolivia Filler for difficult surfaces can be used, for example.

For larger repairs, Bolivia Special Filler can be applied.

After drying, sand the repaired areas smooth according to the filler's instructions.

It is better to repair damaged tile grout with a suitable grouting product than with regular filler.

Step 4 – Apply adhesion primer

Always use a primer suitable for a smooth, non-porous surface.

A possible professional system setup is, for example:

Brillux 2K-Aqua EP Primer 2373

This 2-component epoxy primer was developed for difficult-to-adhere, non-porous surfaces.

Because ceramic tiles and glaze layers can differ greatly from each other, we always recommend first performing an adhesion test on a small area.

Allow the primer to dry completely according to the technical product data sheet.

Step 5 – Paint the tiles

Do not use regular wall paint to finish tiles.

For a durable, easily cleanable finish, after assessing the surface, you can choose, for example:

Brillux 2K-Aqua Silk Matt Paint 2388

This 2-component paint is highly resistant to mechanical and chemical stress and therefore forms a much stronger finish than regular wall paint.

Apply two finish coats if possible.

If necessary, lightly sand between coats with P320 or a very fine sanding screen and make the surface dust-free again.

Step 6 – Reapply sealant joints

Only reapply sanitary sealant joints after the paint system has cured sufficiently.

For example, use:

Zwaluw Silicone-NO (+ Sanitary)

This silicone sealant is suitable for sanitary applications such as bathrooms and kitchens and remains permanently flexible.

Important to know

Painted tiles will never be the same as new ceramic tiles. A paint layer remains more sensitive to scratches, impacts, moisture and aggressive cleaning products.

Therefore, Giga Paint recommends painting tiles primarily as a cosmetic solution for wall tiles that are not heavily stressed.

Unsure about your tiles?

Every tile, glaze layer and situation is different. If in doubt, take a photo with you or send us a photo of the surface. Giga Paint can then advise which primer system and finish are most suitable for your situation.